Members | Sign In
All Forums > Hardware and LBE construction
avatar

Shift +1 for firing

posted Dec 05, 2012 05:35:06 by Auto_Pilot
I just got an IPAC and have had some success working with the buttons and programming it for a weapons console. The issue I am running into is that I have to program each button for a separate key stroke, I don't think I can program it for the shift and then 1 button to fire tube 1. Does anyone know of a way around that? Or some way to make the Hotkey a single key instead of two key strokes?
page   1 2 next last
20 replies
avatar
Cmdr.Brandr said Dec 05, 2012 16:20:05
Well assuming you are using the latest version you can edit the controls.ini to change the keystroke to what ever you want.

Re: Version 1.66 is now available
--(custom input) The keyboard and joystick mapping is now routed through a file called controls.ini . This file allows you to change which key or joystick button triggers which UI event. Because all of the game controls are based on the client, changing this file on the server computer won't do much good.
Commander Brandr
Commanding Officer of the ship Calamitous Intent

-------------------------------------------------------
Check our crews adventures at http://nerdneerdowells.com
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 05, 2012 16:44:16
Perfect! That is exactly what I needed. And it works.

Hopefully will have the operational test console up soon.

Thanks!
avatar
Cmdr.Brandr said Dec 05, 2012 17:14:15
Pictures?
Commander Brandr
Commanding Officer of the ship Calamitous Intent

-------------------------------------------------------
Check our crews adventures at http://nerdneerdowells.com
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 05, 2012 18:08:12
I was just thinking about doing that =]


This is just the foam core and cheap arcade button mock-up. It is meant to be a first time proof of concept for the IPAC which I had never worked with before (You can see it in the background along with a wiring harness I'm working on). I set it up for the basic weapons load. The End goal is to have a full console with a screen and everything, but i figured a good mid-step would be to have a table top console that plugs into a laptop (since we bring our own to games so far.) I figured that would be more versatile than making the entire console, and more mobile. I played on Tom's touch pad set up at GenCon and I really like it, but personally I am a tangible button kind of guy and hope that eventually the final set up will add to the atmosphere of a real ship set up.


Here is the front face. I have already gotten comments from my friends that it should be 1-4 top down, but I made it to match up with the on screen weapons lay out that is 4-1 top down on the missile ship. We will see if this makes better sense when we test play it.


Now the fun part, wiring up all those switches. I marked the switch with what connector it goes to so i wouldn't have to constantly be flipping it over, and checking my comparison sheet to see what i programmed as what. The IPAC will be set on a piece of foam core taped across the bottom. Like I said, this is the test set up, no fancy enclosed housing or anything yet.

My only comment about the IPAC so far is that it does have a free, easy to use program for programming the switches, however I had issues getting it to upload to the IPAC itself. Fortunately they also had a way to connect a keyboard right to the unit and program it. This is a little more awkward and includes pressing the button, then selecting the key you want and some programming codes, but at least it worked.

My plan is to get this ready for some games we are running this Saturday and get some feedback from my players as far as layout etc. If all goes well the next step is to build a nice wood enclosure with some more respectable (and possibly interchangeable) graphics and some nice stylish light up buttons.
avatar
deathbygiraffe said Dec 07, 2012 00:50:21
BRILLIANT!
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 09, 2012 07:09:14
Tested this out today and it ran really well. Fro next months game, we hope to have a complete console made with a wood enclosure, more buttons, and light up buttons.
avatar
deathbygiraffe said Dec 09, 2012 15:08:39
Pilot,
Would the I-PAC VE work for this? The I-PAC2 is out of stock.
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 09, 2012 16:03:56
I ordered mine off of E-bay. Type in "i-pac 2" and you should see a list of them. I even found one selling for the same price as listed on the original site.

That said, as far as I can tell from the web site, the I-PAC VE is exactly the same as the I-PAC 2 but it uses USB interface only. In fact I will probably just try a VE next myself since I had to buy a PS/2 to USB adapter for my I-PAC 2 because none of the Laptops we were using had a PS/2 on it.
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 09, 2012 16:07:30
AH, and it does not store a custom code set. It just puts it in RAM. So the I-PAC 2 can be programmed with custom keys, unplugged and then later plugged in and the custom keys are still set.

The I-PAC VE has its original code set, but when you load the custom keys it only stores in RAM so you have to upload the custom key set every time you plug in the controller.
avatar
deathbygiraffe said Dec 09, 2012 16:12:27
Thank you very much. Do you think I could bother you to post pics of the final build/wiring? I know you said you plan upgrade to a wooden/lightup chassis, but I think the foam core solution is amazing.
avatar
Auto_Pilot said Dec 11, 2012 17:18:51
Sure I can. Though I am not sure how much help you will get out of it. It is kind of messy and specific to the controller that I made.



I left the bottom open for quick and easy access and repair if needed. The IPAC is screwed down to the board taped across the bottom.



This shows the wiring from the switches to the IPAC. Teh green wires are the ground and go around the switches in a daisy chain loop. Then each individual switch gets wired up to it's port on the IPAC.



In this shot it is easier to see the green wire looping from switch to switch.



The IPAC has screw in terminals. All you have to do is put the wire in and screw it down. I ended up using stranded wire that was a little too small for the terminals so I ended up folding it over and putting some solder on the end. If you use a thicker gauge wire, ( I used 18) you wouldn't have to worry about that.



On the switches, I soldered the wire to female connectors. Then the connectors just slide on. They stay pretty firmly in place, and this way if I want to reuse, or rewire it, it is a quick and simple process. (very helpful when on our first test run I noticed i had accidentally flipped two wires for the torpedo tubes.)

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

avatar
deathbygiraffe said Dec 11, 2012 18:41:09
Thank you SO MUCH. I do believe this will be my Xmas break project!
avatar
ThomRobertson said Dec 13, 2012 02:37:35
SO cool!
Creator of Artemis
avatar
Mike_Substelny said Dec 13, 2012 15:14:09
I love this fantastic project, AutoPilot! Great work!

If I were building this console I would make it slightly larger, with a key switch above the "Nuke" button. That way the Weapons Officer could not load nukes unless the key were inserted and turned. The key might even be connected to a red LED to indicate that nuke loading was enabled.
"Damn the torpedoes! Four bells, Captain Drayton!"

(Likely actual words of Admiral David Farragut, USN, at the battle of Mobile Bay. Four bells was the signal for the engine room to make full steam ahead).
avatar
Cmdr.Brandr said Dec 13, 2012 16:28:26
OOh I like the key switch idea. Makes it all high security.
Commander Brandr
Commanding Officer of the ship Calamitous Intent

-------------------------------------------------------
Check our crews adventures at http://nerdneerdowells.com
Login below to reply: